There is no doubt, Rioja is having an identity crisis. The traditional method of producing red Rioja wine - using tempranillo grapes, picking early to preserve acidity, and aging in new American oak barrels - is losing popularity on the international market. Thus arose the "modern" Rioja, which utilizes grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon in addition to Tempranillo, picks later for riper, juicier grapes, and uses less (or different) oak. While many feel that it is important to preserve the traditions of Rioja wine, many others recognize the importance of pleasing the "international palate."
Montecillo has largely chosen to follow the narrow, treacherous path directly in between these two factions. The have retained the traditional classifications for Rioja wines - Crianza, Reserva, Gran Reserva - that refer to the length of time the wine has been aged. They use 100% Tempranillo grapes. But they also age in French oak, which has less vanillin (that compound that makes wines taste buttery and vanilla-y) and thus allows the nature of the grape to shine through.
And so it does. The nose carries aromas of blackberry, black pepper, and something floral, almost like violets (although, I will be the first to admit that I need to spend more time smelling flowers...). The mouthfeel is plush - there is plenty of tannin, but they are fine and smooth, and the flavors of dark berry and spice power through. All the elements are in precise balance, not a one overpowering another.
This would be an excellent companion to beef of any preparation, but for some reason right now I am picturing a nice steak frites, with a little spice rub on the meat. And maybe on the fries, too. I think Montecillo is right on track to bring Rioja into the 21st Century with class, appeal, and tradition intact.
Vintage: 2007
Region: Rioja Alta, Spain
Grape: Tempranillo
Price: $11.99
Thursday, March 8, 2012
Tuesday, February 28, 2012
2009 Château Bellevue Bordeaux Supérieur
The first of the '09 Bordeaux to hit the OBL Wine Shop! Seems like a fitting subject for the inagural post on our new blog.
The '09s have been getting a lot of press lately - both good and bad. The good: the wines are amazing. The weather in Bordeaux that growing season was warm (not hot - no scorched grapes here), sunny, and dry - exactly what grapes want and need to produce top-notch wines. Wine Spectator reported back in December of 2009 that "A number of vintners say that their wines are already so fantastic that they are enjoying them straight from the vat." I don't know about that, but I do know that now that some of the wines are being released, I am enjoying them straight from the bottle.
The bad: The prices! An increase in the popularity of top-tier Bordeaux in new markets (especially Asia) has driven prices through the roof! I am happy to report, then, that I have found this excellent 2009 Bordeaux at a price ($15.99) that will not force you to live in a tent for the next 5 years.
On the nose, the wine is rich with buttered cherries, red flowers, and a hint of something fresh and earthy in the background - like tomato leaves in a summer garden. It's a very appealing combination. Surprisingly, the wine is not a fruit blockbuster on the palate. It's actually quite elegant, with tart cherry and savory herb playing with already-smooth tannin. Not a Bordeaux you need to age for 25 years, this one's ready now.
On a side note, the term Bordeaux Supérieur does not necessarily mean the wine is better than a plain old Bordeaux. It actually just means it has higher alcohol content. Just a little party fact for you.
Enjoy!
Vintage: 2009
Region: Bordeaux, France
Grape: Blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Malbec (proportions unknown)
Price: $15.99
The '09s have been getting a lot of press lately - both good and bad. The good: the wines are amazing. The weather in Bordeaux that growing season was warm (not hot - no scorched grapes here), sunny, and dry - exactly what grapes want and need to produce top-notch wines. Wine Spectator reported back in December of 2009 that "A number of vintners say that their wines are already so fantastic that they are enjoying them straight from the vat." I don't know about that, but I do know that now that some of the wines are being released, I am enjoying them straight from the bottle.
The bad: The prices! An increase in the popularity of top-tier Bordeaux in new markets (especially Asia) has driven prices through the roof! I am happy to report, then, that I have found this excellent 2009 Bordeaux at a price ($15.99) that will not force you to live in a tent for the next 5 years.
On the nose, the wine is rich with buttered cherries, red flowers, and a hint of something fresh and earthy in the background - like tomato leaves in a summer garden. It's a very appealing combination. Surprisingly, the wine is not a fruit blockbuster on the palate. It's actually quite elegant, with tart cherry and savory herb playing with already-smooth tannin. Not a Bordeaux you need to age for 25 years, this one's ready now.
On a side note, the term Bordeaux Supérieur does not necessarily mean the wine is better than a plain old Bordeaux. It actually just means it has higher alcohol content. Just a little party fact for you.
Enjoy!
Vintage: 2009
Region: Bordeaux, France
Grape: Blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Malbec (proportions unknown)
Price: $15.99
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)