There is no doubt, Rioja is having an identity crisis. The traditional method of producing red Rioja wine - using tempranillo grapes, picking early to preserve acidity, and aging in new American oak barrels - is losing popularity on the international market. Thus arose the "modern" Rioja, which utilizes grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon in addition to Tempranillo, picks later for riper, juicier grapes, and uses less (or different) oak. While many feel that it is important to preserve the traditions of Rioja wine, many others recognize the importance of pleasing the "international palate."
Montecillo has largely chosen to follow the narrow, treacherous path directly in between these two factions. The have retained the traditional classifications for Rioja wines - Crianza, Reserva, Gran Reserva - that refer to the length of time the wine has been aged. They use 100% Tempranillo grapes. But they also age in French oak, which has less vanillin (that compound that makes wines taste buttery and vanilla-y) and thus allows the nature of the grape to shine through.
And so it does. The nose carries aromas of blackberry, black pepper, and something floral, almost like violets (although, I will be the first to admit that I need to spend more time smelling flowers...). The mouthfeel is plush - there is plenty of tannin, but they are fine and smooth, and the flavors of dark berry and spice power through. All the elements are in precise balance, not a one overpowering another.
This would be an excellent companion to beef of any preparation, but for some reason right now I am picturing a nice steak frites, with a little spice rub on the meat. And maybe on the fries, too. I think Montecillo is right on track to bring Rioja into the 21st Century with class, appeal, and tradition intact.
Vintage: 2007
Region: Rioja Alta, Spain
Grape: Tempranillo
Price: $11.99
